Sushi Roku is making it easy to order out. The menu comes with great reheating directions and the pick-up at the valet of The Line Hotel is a breeze. Sourdough Dinner Rolls with pomegranate honey butter are also included.
Hippo highland park menu plus#
But in its own sly way - in the understated, tightly knit network of cuisines that Molina seamlessly brings together - a dinner at Hippo can also be a startlingly clear window into this nebulous, indefinable, magnificent thing we call California cooking.3-courses plus extras for $45 from Chef Josiah Citrin (Melisse)? No, you aren’t reading that wrong! Available through Tock LA, treat yourself to the best of the restaurant with dishes like a Gem Salad with aged goat cheese and truffle vinaigrette “Surf & Turf” with Snake River sirloin and Hibachi grilled pawns my favorite Charred Broccolini with green sambal and avocado Smoked Carrots and a Tart variation (persimmon is pictured).
That’s the draw that would persuade me to drive across Los Angeles.
Listen, I won’t blame anyone who devotes his or her appetite primarily to Molina’s pastas. If prompted, he also lets loose on fantastic screeds about orange wines, of which he does offer a few, and the blurry delineations of the natural wine movement. Ask him to choose an affordable bottle among Old World outliers. Hippo aims to satisfy thirst as well as hunger: The cocktail program is strong the wine service is even better, thanks to general manager David Rosoff.
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The culinary ambition that sets Hippo apart doesn’t reach the dessert menu: It’s a predictable selection - ice cream sundae, pot de crème - that makes me glad I go hard on the noodles. And there might be the occasional disappointments, such as a salad of haricots verts saturated in an oily vinaigrette. Multiple dinners at Hippo will reveal the nuances at play in Molina’s cooking beyond the pastas. It’s an affinity that inspired what is arguably Hippo’s signature entrée, a gutsy, gratifying mixed grill of sorts: one grilled pork rib crackling with fennel seed and black pepper, sausage revved with fennel to taste that spice in stereo, and cranberry beans that, in contrast to the meat, melt to a purée on the tongue. Molina mentioned that he associates the marriage of beans and pork in Mediterranean cuisine with the cooking of his own Mexican American heritage. He’s another Silverton acolyte he and Molina worked together at the legendary Campanile, then teamed on Everson Royce Bar downtown before embarking on this star turn for Molina. In the far back left corner of Hippoplex resides Highland Park Wine Shop, run by Randy Clement of Silverlake Wine.
I’ll grab a snack of Triple Beam’s slabs covered in things like sausage and greens whenever I’m in the area. Two businesses flank Hippo’s entrance: an outpost of fast-growing coffee chain Go Get Em Tiger and bustling Triple Beam Pizza, Molina’s reunion project with Silverton that serves Roman-style square pizza slices scissor-cut to order and sold by weight. The restaurant’s name is a loose acronym of the space’s previous resident, the Highland Park Post Office. You will find these thoroughbred comforts in the center of a 7,500-square-foot warren of businesses along Figueroa Street that might as well be called Hippoplex, stacked with pedigreed players who all seem to have some sort of Silverton connection.
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